Go: Where to visit, stay, and eat in Cortona, Italy
Kelsey and I drove into Cortona from Lamole in Chianti where we were staying in a magnificent villa, on acres of vineyards, with a spectacular panorama overlooking the Chianti Hills. The owner of Il Vilino e Le Scuderie was one of Kelsey’s college professors during her semester abroad in Florence. Although we traveled by car, many travel by train to Camucia which sits at the base of the hill on which Cortona lies. As you climb up the hill, you have a fine view of the Tuscan countryside, Lake Trasimeno, and then Cortona, founded 25 centuries ago.
Take your time exploring every square inch of this magical historical town described so beautifully in the book, and featured so exquisitely in the movie. Here are just a few of the places Kelsey and I visited as recommended from the author and inspired by the film.
Hotel Villa Marsili, Cortona Italy
Hotel Villa Marsili - this is where Kelsey and I stayed. It is stunning with views that will knock you out . The hotel advertises that “ the panoramic position will amaze you”. They are telling the truth. The Villa has a 700 year old history. An ancient church was on the present hall floor and the oratory was on the lower floor. The staircase connecting the two floors is still part of the hotel. The best part about staying here though, was the fact that the entire cast of Under the Tuscan Sun stayed here during the filming of the movie. Throughout the hotel there are photos and pages of the original script, and engaging stories are shared by the staff. If you want a lovely way to read descriptions of the hotel and accommodations, translate the website from Italian to English and sit back and enjoy!
Bramasole - We had the most wonderful local taxi driver, Albino, take us to Bramasole, dropping us off a half mile before we reached the villa. It was so exciting walking up to the nearly 200 year old, soft peachy colored Tuscan house, with the pretty green shutters we had come to know and love from Frances Mayes’ memoir. The entire front area was beautifully landscaped, there was the “great wall” she joked about rebuilding, and the stunning iron gate. And then, there it was - the very shrine the dear old man visited every day in both the book and the movie. I could picture the Polish workers Stanislao and Zeno laying pipes and hauling away endless amounts of stone. I could see Frances and Ed sitting down with friends for a lazy summer lunch at her long wooden tavola adorned with a blue checkered table cloth, vases of colorful flowers in bloom, fresh pots of basil, and numerous bottles of wine. And I can see Frances looking out her front windows at the jaw dropping view of the Tuscan countryside and pinching herself. *note -The villa used in the movie was not Bramasole, but Villa Laura, a beautiful 17th-century estate outside the walls of Cortona.
The Strada Bianca (white road) - If you want to take a long beautiful walk to Bramasole, this is the way to go. It’s a gradual uphill climb past beautiful Tuscan homes. The cypress trees that line the street commemorate the WWI brave citizens of Cortona who lost their lives. After walking another kilometer you can look up to see that the end of Medici leads to the section of the Etruscan Wall known as Bramasole. Frances’ house takes its name from that.
Via Nazionale - the main street in Cortona filled with charming shops and cafes which I understand is magically transformed at Christmastime. While you are shopping, you must stop for coffee/espresso at Teuschers, and enjoy a delicious lunch at La Grotta as Kelsey and I did. We also did some serious shopping where I picked up a beautiful mustard colored cashmere sweater and a stunning Tuscan scarf to go with my Angela Caputi necklace I bought in Florence. Then walking further into the Piazza Signorelli, I found Il Mondo di Amalie, a boutique shop featuring beautiful Umbrian linens and one of a kind jewelry. I found exquisite ivory carved earrings with black onyx and red coral created by an artist who was a direct descendant of Michelangelo! Be sure to have a chat with the owner Valentina and her mother Alba. They are absolutely delightful and will give you the history of just about anything including the earrings I fell in love with and bought.
Le Celle - outside the city walls and back through a wooded one lane road with killer views, you will come to Le Celle, still home to six monks. St. Francis of Assisi came here when he needed a retreat. To this day, this is a place of rest and reflection, on land donated to him in 1211 AD where nine cells were built. It is a beautiful and serene setting with a running creek, waterfall, lovely plants and a wonderful vegetable garden. There are rock walls and arched bridges, and a magnificent statue of St. Francis holding his arms open beckoning all to come rest their weary heads and hearts.
Chiesa de Sta. Margherita, Cortona
Church of Santa Margherita - high above the town you will find this magnificent church where Santa Margherita is encased in glass and venerated locally.
Piazza della Repubblica - this is the heart of Cortona which has been the center of the city since the Roman Forum was here. It is medieval in style featuring the Palazzo del Capitano and bell tower which housed Cardinals before becoming the present Town Hall. Sit on the 13th century steps and enjoy the street scene. Just a few steps away is the Piazza Signorelli where the colorful and lively town markets are held and where Cortona’s beautiful Cathedral stands.
Taverno Pane e Vino - In the Piazza Signorelli you can find this gem of a restaurant with authentic Tuscan fare that is superb. When we visited some of the dishes we enjoyed were, Bruschette with white beans and smoked herring, guinea fowl with truffle, pumpkin soup, and whole baked pigeon with vegetables (eaten with your hands). Incredible! The restaurant is housed in the beautiful cellars of a 14th century building. It was an amazing meal from start to finish.
Gelateria Snoopy - Right next to Taverno Pane e Vino is this fun and very popular gelato shop. Some locals call it the best in Italy. Try the lemon pistachio, or better yet, the dark chocolate which was rich beyond belief.
